Inspired by a pocket watch made by none other than George Daniels, this Retrograde* wristwatch is a prime example of Daniel Roth’s work, combining his signature ellipse-shaped case, grey dial, and pinstripe guilloché style. The piece features an unconventional, fan-shaped layout, and is powered by a heavily modified Lemania 27LN.

An intriguing example that speaks to Roth’s inventive spirit, the Retrograde was rumoured to have been inspired by the One Minute Tourbillon Pocket Watch made by the late George Daniels. First introduced at Baselworld in 1991, production began in 1993. These pieces feature both Roman and Arabic numerals, though it is widely accepted that the Roman numerals are a feature of the earlier pieces, with Arabic numerals being introduced later on.

This Retrograde piece features an unconventional, fan-shaped layout, with the hour hand swinging back to its farthest left position when it reaches six o’clock, ensuring that it never touches the seconds sub-dial. The complication used for this watch, the retrograde, is very much a product of its time. Indeed, during the last decade of the 20th century, many independent watchmakers and established brands were experimenting with unconventional ways of displaying time, with the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel, Cartier Tank à Guichets and Vacheron Constantin Saltarello being a few other noteworthy examples.

Roth's signature double-ellipse case is neither round nor rectangular, and it balances the two different shapes, complemented by a stepped bezel and sharp, straight lugs. Additionally, the deep grey dial is a rich combination of textures, with sharply executed pinstripe guilloché found on the main dial, alongside satin-brushed, silvered chapter rings. In keeping with watchmaking traditions, Daniel Roth's signature can be found on the dial, alongside the number of the piece.

Behind the closed caseback lies a manually wound Lemania 27LN, which has been heavily modified to include the retrograde function, and refinished to an incredibly high standard.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Daniel Roth Retrograde will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Daniel Roth Retrograde 2127 is in very good condition overall. The case and lugs show light superficial marks throughout, more specifically a minor ding above the crystal at the eleven and twelve o'clock position. The pinstripe dial and blued steel hands are free from any signs of imperfection. The hallmarks and engravings on the caseback are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.